Hermès Birkin vs. Kelly: Differences, Sizes and Leathers

The Birkin and the Kelly are the two most iconic bags Hermès has ever made, and both are famous for holding their value. They look similar at first glance, but they are quite different to wear. Here is how to choose.

A little history

The Kelly started life in the 1930s as the Sac à dépêches. It became world famous after Grace Kelly was photographed with it in the 1950s, and Hermès officially renamed it the Kelly in 1977. The Birkin followed in 1984, designed for the actress and singer Jane Birkin, who wanted a bag elegant enough for every day yet spacious enough to carry everything.

The main differences

The Kelly comes in two constructions: Sellier, with stitching on the outside and sharp, rigid lines, and Retourné, with stitching on the inside for a softer, slouchier look.

Popular leathers

• Togo: grained, durable and scratch-resistant.
• Epsom: embossed and light, holds its shape well.
• Clemence: soft, slouchy grained leather.
• Box calf: smooth and glossy, the classic vintage leather. It develops a beautiful patina but shows scratches more easily.

The blind stamp

Every Hermès bag carries a small blind stamp with a letter that indicates the year of production, sometimes inside a shape such as a circle or square. Together with the craftsmanship, the stamp helps experts date and authenticate a bag.

What to check on a pre-owned Hermès

• Corners and handles for wear.
• The shape: does the bag still stand well?
• Hardware, lock and keys (clochette).

Every Hermès piece in our shop is checked for authenticity and has a clear condition rank.

Which size should you choose?

• Birkin 25: compact and light, popular as an everyday and evening bag.
• Birkin 30: the most versatile size, roomy enough for daily essentials without feeling heavy.
• Birkin 35: the classic work size, with room for documents or a small tablet.
• Birkin 40: a generous travel or weekend size.
• Kelly 20 and 25: small and elegant, ideal worn crossbody.
• Kelly 28: the popular middle size for everyday use.
• Kelly 32 and 35: larger, more practical versions with a classic look.

Always compare the measurements on the product page with a bag you already own.

Gold or palladium hardware?

Hermès bags usually come with gold-plated or palladium-plated hardware. Gold is warm and classic and looks beautiful on brown, gold-toned and red leathers. Palladium has a cool silver look that suits black, blue and grey. Some special editions have other finishes. Light scratches on the lock and turn-key are normal on a pre-owned bag.

Other Hermès bags to consider

Is a Birkin or Kelly beyond your budget, or are you looking for something more casual? Consider the Constance with its H clasp, the crossbody Evelyne, the Lindy, the small Picotin or the practical Garden Party tote. Read more about these models and the most popular Hermès leathers in the world of Hermès.

Frequently asked questions

Is a Birkin or Kelly a good investment?
Both are known for holding their value well, but prices can also change. Read more in which designer bags hold their value best.

Does a pre-owned Birkin need its clochette, lock and keys?
They are nice to have and add to the complete look, but they are not essential to use the bag. The product page always lists what is included.

Shop pre-owned Hermès

Discover our Hermès collection, from Birkin and Kelly to wallets, scarves and jewelry.